Goldwork from 10th-12th century Egypt and Syria

fatimidgoldearrings10thcent These earring were thought to have been made between the 10th and 11th century in either Egypt or Syria. At the time the area was ruled by the Fatimid dynasty. The earrings are a combination of sheet, wire, filigree, and granulation work. The first earring is 6.4 cm high and 3.3 cm wide; the second is 6.7 cm high and 3.3 cm wide. The earrings are currently in the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

fatimidgoldring11thcent This ring was thought to have been made in the 11th century in either Fatimid ruled Egypt or Syria. It is made of gold in sheets, decorated with filigree and granulation. The ring is 2.7 cm high and 2.5 cm wide. The diametre is 1.4 cm and the weight of the ring is 5.7 grams. The ring is currently in the Metropolitan Museum of Art where there are more pictures to see.

fatimidgoldpendant11thcent This pendant was also thought to have been made in the 11th century Egypt. It is a rare enamelled piece, made from gold sheet, decorated with filigree, wire work, and inset with turquoise. The enamel itself was later glued into place after the design had been finished. The pendant is 4.5 cm high and 3.5 cm wide. The pendant is in the Metropolitan Museum of Art where there are many other pictures, including one of the back.

ayyubidgoldbelt12thcent This gold belt buckle was thought to have been made in 12th century Syria, which at the time was ruled by the Ayyubid dynasty. It is 10cm long, made of twin plates to cover the end of the leather. The gold buckle has extruded knobs and bosses while the front plate is decorated with a cartouche of a falcon attacking a bird. It was sold by Christies for £17,250 (or $28,683).

Recommended reading

Near Eastern Jewelry: A Picture Book by Dimand, M. S. and H. E. McAllister. Available for download via the Met or read online through Google Books.

Mamluk jewelry: influences and echoes by Jenkins, M. As published in Muqarnas: An Annual on Islamic Art and Architecture, Vol 3.

Islamic Jewelry in The Metropolitan Museum of Art by Jenkins, M. and Keene, M. Available for download via the Met or read online through Google Books.

The veil of Sainte Anne

veilofstanne This textile is known as the veil of Sainte Anne, which is kept in the basilica of Sainte Anne in Apt, France. The legend had it that the veil was found in a vault under the basilica.

However, it is a textile that originated from Damietta in Fatimid Egypt, in the 11th century C.E. It is 310 cm wide and 152 cm high, made from linen with tapestry woven roundels of animals, mythical animals, plants and tiraz.
veilofsaintannedetail
It is now thought to have been plunder of the 1st Crusade, although the first mention of it in the records in Apt is 1714. It is very well preserved, as it is mostly stored in a glass flask unless it is the Sainte Anne´s feast day. The selvages are on both sides of the fabric, so was woven with the width of 310 cm. It has three tapestry woven designs, made from silk and gold thread. The large roundel reads-

Alī is the friend of God; may God bless him. Imam Abu-l-Qāsim al-Musta’lī billah, emir of the Believers, may God bless him, his pure-hearted ancestors and his very worthy descendants

The tiraz on the sides reads-

This is what was made in the private weaving factory at Damietta in the year ….9

which isolates the date to either 1096 or 1097 C.E.

The textile is thought to be a back of a khila´ or ceremonial gifted robe known as an ‘abā which is a sleeveless coat.

Recommended reading
Writing Signs: The Fatimid Public Text by Irene A. Bierman. Via Google Books.

The veil of Saint Anne by H. A. Elsberg and R. Guest. The Burlington Magazine for Connoisseurs, Vol. 68, No. 396 (Mar., 1936), pp. 140+144-145+147. Via JStor.

Symbols of Power by Louise Mackie. Via Google Books.

Qantara: Veil of Saint Anne.

An embroidery once more

ashmoleanquartrefoilsandsquares This textile was thought to have been made between the 10th and 15th centuries in Egypt. It is linen, embroidered in blue and pink silk in a quartrefoil pattern linked by squares. There is also a rolled hem in yellow silk at the bottom of the textile.

The textile is 24 cm by 13 cm. Thread count of the linen is 22 threads per cm. The embroidered band itself is 7.3 cm. It is currently in the Ashmolean Museum.

There is a chart of the design here-
ashmoleanquartrefoilsandsquares PDF

Let me know how it goes!

The cross of Timotheus

crosstimotheus14thcent This is an iron Bishop’s cross, found in 1967 in a crypt in the cathedral in Qasr Ibrim. The Bishop that was buried was named Timotheus and the cross was a symbol of his authority.

The cross is 54 cm long. It was found over the breast of the Bishop, who had also been buried with two scrolls in Coptic and Arabic. One of the scrolls was his appointment scroll from the Coptic Patriarch which bears the date 1371 C.E. Timotheus died before he could he could take up the office, and had been buried not in his robes of office but his travelling clothes. The cross is currently in the British Museum.

Recommended reading
The clothes that Bishop Timotheus was wearing was covered in an article by Elizabeth Crowfoot but I am unable to access it. However, a Scadian named Heather Rose Jones had read the book and created a doll based on the descriptions of the clothes. The page can be read here- http://heatherrosejones.com/digthatdoll/timotheus.html

The garb patterns have also been created by C. Mellor and can be seen on his Pinterest page- https://www.pinterest.com/unclrashid/my-sca-garb-medieval-renaissance-my-pattern-diagra/

Silk in Ancient Nubia: one road, many sources by Adams, N. PDF document through digital commons.

The Church in Africa, 1450-1950 by Adrian Hastings. Via Google books.

Medieval Nubia: A Social and Economic History by Giovanni Ruffini. Via Google books.

Medieval Nubia. A site for the promotion of information about Medieval Nubia, including translations of texts.

A new complex double running embroidery

ashmoleaneightpointedstar This embroidered textile was made in Egypt between the 10th and 15th century C.E. It is even weave linen, 13 cm by 7.5 cm and embroidered in blue and brown silk in double running stitch. The design has a central eight pointed star, surrounded in squares with crosses and blue triangles. The main design is edged with continuous vines.

The textile is currently in the Ashmolean Museum.

It is my opinion that the embroidery is closer to the 15th century than the 10th. I have charted up the design and would love to know how it goes!

ashmoleaneightpointstar PDF

Seljuk Iranian pendants of the 11th-13th centuries

seljukpendant11thcent This pendant was thought to have been made in Seljuk ruled Iran between the 11th and 12th century. It is made of gold openwork filigree with gold granulation. The diametre is 5.9 cm. It is currently on show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

seljukiranpendant11thcent This pendant was also thought to have been made between the 11th-12th century in Iran. It is of gold sheeting decorated with gold filigree set with pink tourmaline and turquoise. It is currently on show in the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

seljukiranpendant12thcent This pendant was thought to have been made in the 12th century in Iran. It is made of gold sheet decorated with filigree. It is currently in the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

seljukbirdpendant12thcent This bird pendant was thought to have been made in the 12th century in Iran. It was made of cut gold sheet decorated with filigree. It is currently in the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

seljuk12thcentpendant This pendant was thought to have been made between the 12th-13th century in Iran. It was made with gold sheeting, filigree, and jade. The dimensions are 3.2 cm by 5.1 cm. It is currently in the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Recommended reading
Islamic Jewelry in the Metropolitan Museum of Art edited by M. Jenkins, M. Keene. Published by the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Via Google Books.

Adornment, Identity, and Authenticity: Ancient Jewelry In and Out of Context by Megan Cifarelli. In the American Journal of Archaeology, Issue 114.1, January 2010. PDF document.

A new pattern darning chart

ashmoleancontinuouss This textile was thought to have been made between the 10th and 15th centuries in Egypt. It is a kerchief or square cover that is linen embroidered in blue and brown silk. The textile is 28.5 by 26 cm, embroidered in eight pattern darning bands with a width of 1 cm. The kerchief is currently in the Ashmolean Museum.

I have charted up the design. It is in pdf format-
ashmoleancontinuouss PDF

I also used the design in an embroidery competition in my Kingdom. I will edit the post later to add a picture, as I currently don’t have one. I will also upload a pdf of my documentation-
WCob3 PDF

Let me know how you find the chart!