Sorry for not posting this sooner, but mundane life has been distracting me from the pure research. So I thought to get everything rolling by posting the product of previous research. Having done research into Persian cloud collars in 2015 (the post can be read at “My own Persian cloud collar research”) and having commissioned two Persian Timurid coats through my friend at Mikhaila’s Unmentionables, I finally followed through with embroidery plans.
I decided to do a collar that sat proud of the coat, but was attached at the neck. First step is to create a template.
The third template design, which can be done up & go around the neck.
Having settled on the template, I used two layers of silk and linen which would eventually be lined with white linen.
This is two layers, sewn quickly together and marked out with a soluble pen.
The design itself is quite complex scrolling. The stitch I chose to work in Au ver a Soie indigo silk thread was stem stitch. I eventually regretted this choice, as it was painful on the hands.
This stage took quite a while to get to. I had given myself a deadline of 12th Night.
The final result-
The collar the night before the event. Still damp from preparations.
I entered it into the Lochac Arts & Sciences competition with the topic of “from the Middle East”. I won!
Now that the recipient has gotten their gift (and seems to be enjoying it), I can share pictures of a project that took up quite a bit of time.
The Worshipful Company of Broderers in the Kingdom of Lochac has a tradition that the Guild makes a gift to each reigning set of monarchs. It is the choice of those that have reigned what they would like to receive. I volunteered to do a towel, in pattern darning stitch.
Done on linen with au Ver a Soie silk, it is embroidered at both ends.
This piece has been graded as my second Masterwork for the Guild.
My documentation- wcob gift documentation
This textile was from either Eastern Iran or Sogdiana. Dated to the 8th-9th century C.E., it is a woven silk with the dimensions of 34cm by 44 cm. Seam visible on right of textile. Currently at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, although not currently on view.
Very similar roundel to previously posted Sogdian textiles in the post An early period Sogdiana coat.
Cochineal Red: The Art History of a Color by Elena Phipps. Met publications, 2010. PDF available for download through link.
Costume of the Samarkand Region of Sogdiana between the 2nd/lst Century BCE and the 4th Century CE by Fiona Kidd. Bulletin of the Asia Institute, 2003, page 35-69. Available through Academia.edu.
Ritual and Identity in Sogdiana by Melinda Niekum. Via Academia.edu.
This textile was made in Egypt between 1250 and 1500 C.E. It is linen, embroidered with red silk in two distinct patterns. It is 14 cm by 19 cm. There are two rolled hems on the left and right sides. It is thought that it is a possible scarf or girdle. The textile is in the V&A Museum, Accession number 804-1898. The embroidery at the bottom of the textile is almost the same design as a textile in the Ashmolean, which can be read about in a previous post “A new embroidery chart with chevrons and diamond shapes”.
I have charted the top design. It is available as a pdf.
Let me know how you find it!
Recently I had been given Nawal Nasrallah’s recent translation of 14th century Egyptian cookbook “Treasure Trove of Benefits and Variety at the Table” or Kanz al-fawāʾid fī tanwīʿ al-mawāʾid. I thought to try out a few of the recipes for digestives, although there is only one included in this post. From page 252, recipe number 353, Sharab laymun safarjali (concentrated syrup for lemon-quince drink).
Take a quince, peel it, cut into pieces, and remove the seeds. Boil it in water until it softens and is half cooked. Put the quince aside, and keep the boiling liquid.
Dissolve sugar in the water and boil it until it thickens. Throw in the reserved liquid in which the quince was boiled, and resume boiling it until the syrup is thick enough. Throw in the [boiled] quince and bring it to the boil once or twice, and then remove it. Squeeze one or two lemons on it, and scent it with rosewater.
3 quinces (peeled, cored and chopped)
5 cups water
2 & 1/2 cups raw sugar
3 tablespoons rosewater
Boil the water & quince together until tender.
Remove quince, add sugar and a few strips of lemon peel from the lemons. Boil until half reduced.
While reducing liquid, squeeze two lemons and strain to remove pips.
After liquid has reduced, remove peel and return quinces to pot.
After fruit has fallen apart, mash/blitz with blender. Add lemon juice and rosewater. Strain into jars.
This flask is made from blue hand blown glass, with a stopper covered in fabric and attached by a cord to the flask’s fabric case.
The flask’s fabric case is made from linen, embroidered with blue flax and done in pulled thread work.
As seen, the stitches also involve a stitch known as a dove’s eye. The bag was also stuffed with vegetable fibres, possibly for insulation. The size (including the bag) is 13.5cm height with 11 width and 1.5 cm depth.
The pilgrim’s flask in currently in the Ashmolean Museum and thought to have been made between 14th and 15th Century C.E.
All images taken from one manuscript of the Bibliothèque nationale de France’s copy of the Les Maqâmât d’Aboû Moḥammad al-Qâsim ibn ʿAlî al-Ḥarîrî, known as manuscript Arabe 3929. The Maqâmât (or “Assemblies”) are 50 stories, written in the mid 13th century C.E. in northern Syria. The prose is written in the style known as saj’, meant to be learnt by rote and recited to others by heart.
This image of of the hero of the story Abu Zayd (on the right of the image) and his wife. This is Image f40 in the manuscript.
This image is Abu Zayd and his wife being arrested. Taken from Image f49 in the manuscript.
Abu Zayd appearing as an old woman. Taken from Image f85 in the manuscript.
Another picture of Abu Zayd as an old woman. Taken from Image f88 in the manuscript.
Abu Zayd appearing before the Kadi. The picture is taken from Image f279 in the manuscript.
The Kadi dispensing justice to Abu Zayd and his wife. Taken from Image f285 in the manuscript.
This is the slave of Abu Zayd. Taken from Image f313 from the manuscript.
Medieval Sourcebook: Al Hariri of Basrah by Paul Halsall. The first 12 Assemblies.
LibriVox- Excerpts from the Makamat. Public domain audiobook.
Orality, writing and the image in the Maqamat: Arabic illustrated books in context by Alain F. George. Via Academia.edu.
In Pursuit of Shadows: Al-Hariri’s Maqāmāt by David J. Roxburgh. First printed in Muqarnas: An Annual on the Visual Cultures of the Islamic World 30 (2013): 171-212. Via Archnet.
Arab Dress: From the dawn of Islam to modern times by Yedida Stillman. Via the Internet Archive.