An interpretive embroidery

b6127 This textile is cream coloured mulham (silk-linen blend) worked with couched metal thread (gold wound on cream silk), with brown, cream, light green and light blue silk thread worked in split stitch. Done over two pieces that were then sewn together, the textile is 11cm by 9cm. It is currently in the Museum of Fine Arts Accesssion number 31.445. It is linked to two other textiles in the Museum, specifically Accession number 31.443 and Accession number 31.444 although the records differ, with the other textile saying that it is Mesopotamian from the 10th-11th century.

I have done my own interpretation of the embroidery, with linen as a background cloth, using Gumnut Yarns silk perle thread and gilt smooth passing thread on a silk core.
dscn0388 My colour choices were based on article History of Dyes Used in Different Historical Periods of Egypt by Omar Abdel-Kareem.
The reverse-
dscn0391
I am unsure of the date of the embroidery, so any information would be welcome!

A textile with crosses in diamonds

ashmolean-crossesindiamonds This textile was thought to have been made in Egypt between the 10th to 15th century C.E. It is tabby woven linen embroidered in dark blue silk in double running stitch. The design is 9.3cm wide, while the whole textile is 20 cm by 22 cm. There is a selvedge on the right side of the textile. It is currently in the Ashmolean Museum, EA1984.546.

I have charted up the design for use. It’s in PDF format. Let me know how it goes!
ashmoleancrossesindiamonds PDF

Textile embroidered with pink and blue quatrefoils

ashmoleanblueandpinkquatrefoils This textile was thought to have been made between the 10th and 15th century C.E. in Egypt. It is plain woven linen, embroidered in double running stitch in blue and pink silk. There are three rolled hems along the top, bottom, and right hand side of the textile. It is 19.5 cm wide by 12.5 cm high.

It is currently in the Ashmolean Museum, accession number EA1984.408.

I have charted up the design. It is available as a pdf.
ashmoleanblueandpinkquatrefoils PDF

Good luck!

Four Seljuk rings

seljukring1
This 12th-13th century ring is made of silver and gold with the diametre of 2.5cm.

seljukring1purpleseal

There is a carved seal of purple stone and a calligraphic niello design on the under side.

seljukring1underside
The inscription on the seal reads-

“bi’llah yathiq ‘ali”

which in English means “Ali puts his trust in God”. The second inscription around the bezel reads-

“al-‘izz al-da/’im wa al-i/qbal al/ al-baqa”

which in English translates to “Perpetual Glory, Prosperity, and Long-life.” The final inscription has not been translated. The ring was sold by Sotheby’s for 27,500 GBP.

seljukring2 This 12th-13th century ring of gold has a bezel decorated with two birds, inside a cartouche surrounded by arabesques and human figures holding up pseudo claw settings. The ring is 1.7 cm high. Sold by Christie’s for 2,115 GBP.

seljukring3
This 12th-13th century gold ring is decorated in a hexagonal shape with niello in a curling arabesque design and a calligraphic inscription that reads-

“Abu Bakr Musa”

who was the owner of the ring. The band of the ring has harpies and palmettes. It is 1.9 cm high. It was sold by Bonhams for 1,800 GBP.

seljukring4

This high stirrup ring is 9th-11th century silver, with a high raised bezel setting with an amethyst. There is a calligraphic kufic inscription which reads in English-

“Blessing to Hasan”

who is the owner of the ring. It is 3.8cm high. It had been passed in at Bonhams.

A textile embroidered with quatrefoils and stems

ashmoleanquatrefoilandstems This textile is thought to have been made between the 10th and 15th century C.E. in Egypt. The dimensions are 18 cm by 19 cm, with the ground fabric of tabby woven linen embroidered in running and double running stitch in blue and red silk. There is a selvedge along the top of the textile.

It can be found in the Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1993.206

I have charted the design. It is available to download as a pdf document.
ashmoleanquartrefoilsandstems PDF

Let me know how it goes!

Buyid embroideries

largebuyidembroideredcloth11thcent This textile was made in either Iran or Iraq in the 11th century, under the Buyids. It is 31.5 cm by 40.5 cm and the base fabric is mulham (silk warp and cotton weft fabric) tabby woven with silk and gold thread embroidery. It has two tiraz inscriptions, which read (on the top)-

“. . . command and glory and power and good fortune and . . . peace and command and command [one word garbled].”

with the text on the bottom-

“. . . [the Compassionat]te [?]. Praise be to God, Lord of the worlds and the wor[lds?].”

The textile is in the Cleveland Museum of Art, accession number 1938.300.

buyidembroidery11thcent Also thought to have been made in the 11th century in either Iran or Iraq, this textile is 40 cm by 26 cm. Also mulham ground fabric embroidered in silk and gold wrapped thread, with roundels of birds and animals. There is a tiraz at the bottom, but no translation is available. It is currently in the Cleveland Museum of Art accession number 1952.257.

Four Seljuk embroideries in the Cleveland Museum of Art

12thcentseljuktiraz This textile was thought to have been made in either Iran or Iraq during the time of the Seljuk Empire. The base fabric is mulham (silk warp thread with cotton weft thread) woven into a tabby or plain weave. The embroidery is a tiraz, sewn in silk and gold metal thread with the dimensions being 6cm high and 19.7cm wide. The textile’s accession number is 1950.560.

seljuk12thcentembroidery This textile was thought to have been made in the 12th century in either Iraq or Iran. Like the previous textile, it is also mulham tabby weave embroidered with silk and gold metal thread. The dimensions are 14.6cm high and 8cm wide. This textile’s accession number is 1950.561.

seljuk12thcentroundelembroidery This textile is also like the other textiles- mulham tabby weave with silk and gold metal embroidery from the 12th century. The dimensions are 7cm high and 23.5cm wide in a roundel design with a bird in the centre. The accession number is 1950.562 with another view of the textile available on the page.

12thcentseljukbirdembroidery This textile is the same as the previous- mulham tabby weave with silk and gold metal embroidery. The dimensions are 7.3cm high and 21.6 cm wide. The accession number is 1950.533 with another view of the textile available on the site.

Recommended Reading
Ars Islamica, Ann Arbor, University of Michigan Press, 1934. Via the Internet Archive.

Ancient Silk Textiles in the Land of Israel by Shamir O. and Baginski A. in Resist Dye on the Silk road: Shibori, Clamp Resist and Ikat. Proceeding of the 9th International Shibori Symposium in Hangzhou, China. Pp. 25-31. Via Academia.edu.

Tiraz: Textiles and Dress with Inscriptions in Central and Southwest Asia by Margaret Anne Deppe. PDF file.