Classes I taught earlier in the year

Earlier in the year I taught at the Politarchopolis University online. I taught a class on the history of Mamluk embroidery, and thought to share them here too. I have them saved as pdf documents.

Egyptian Mamluk embroidery pdf
Mamluk Egyptian charts & reading pdf

Happy to answer any questions!

13th century embroidered tunic front


This tunic is plain woven linen embroidered in double running stitch in black and red silk, made in Egypt. Unfortunately there are no dimensions available. There is no round section visible for the neck itself, the textile seems neatly cut across the top. I am unsure of how the decorations would go around the neck, since it is a square design. It is currently in the Cooper Hewitt, Accession Number 1971-50-13

I have charted it up for use.
chtunic13thcent PDF
Have fun!

A personal note

I am aware that I haven’t posted for some time, but mundane life pulled me away from much. I do have a small announcement however!

A few weeks ago Their majesties Theuderic II and Engelin II have graciously invited me to join the Order of the Laurel and I have accepted. I am now deeply in the throws of planning garb. So here are a few items that are currently inspiring my garb research.

Textile is 10-15th century C.E. Linen embroidered with brown silk, in circles, trefoils, vines, leaves, and lines. The textile can be found in the Ashmolean Museum, accession number EA1984.288.

Also 10th-15th century C.E. Linen embroidered with blue and red silk in trefoils, leaves, and arabesque vines. Found in the Ashmolean Museum accession number EA1984.66.

This textile is also from 10th-15th century. Striped silk fabric embroidered with red, blue, and yellow silk with silver wrapped thread. It is obviously a neckline from a tunic, with there also being a backing of linen. Currently to be found in the Ashmolean Museum accession number EA1988.25.

Another tunic neckline from the 10th-15th century C.E. Linen, which had been overlaid with black silk, embroidered with black, blue, green, and red silk along with silver metal thread. Decorated with triangles, diagonals, trees, and medallions with crosses. The textile can be found in the Ashmolean Museum, accession number EA1993.338.

A textile with chevrons

This textile was made in Egypt between the 10th-15th century C.E. It is 21.5 cm long and 19 cm wide(the embroidery is 13 cm). It is linen embroidered in blue flax. The textile is in the Ashmolean Museum Accession number EA1984.539.

I have charted it up. It is available for download as a pdf-
ashmoleanzigzag (PDF)
Instead of asking how everyone else finds the chart, I did a handkerchief as a gift to Their Majesties Rowland and Tailltiu.
Have fun!

A wave embroidery

This textile is Egyptian, made between the 10th-15th century C.E. It is a base fabric of plain woven linen, embroidered in double running stitch in blue and brown silk.

The textile is 21 cm high by 18.5 cm wide, with three rolled hems. It is likely that this is a decorated end of a larger textile, possibly a sash. The textile is currently in the Ashmolean Museum.

There is not much left of the original embroidery, so I extrapolated what the chart would be completely filled.

ashmoleanwave PDF

Please let me know if there are any issues downloading the PDF.

A new zigzag embroidery

This textile can be found in the Textile Museum of Canada, Accession number T88.0029. It is thought to have been made the 13th and 15th century C.E. of plain woven linen embroidered in blue or black silk. The textile is 33 cm long and 17.5 cm wide.

Unfortunately the embroidery on the far right of the textile has been destroyed, so is not easily charted. There is evidence of more of the zigzags, but little of anything else. I have charted up the design. It can be downloaded in pdf format. Let me know how it goes!

tmczigzag PDF

Many birds!

ashmoleanbirdsalternating This textile is plain tabby woven linen, 11.5 cm by 7.8cm and embroidered in red silk. The textile was thought to have been made between the 10th-15th century C.E and found in Egypt. Currently the textile can be found in the Ashmolean Museum Accession number EA1993.193. I have charted up the design & is available for download in pdf format.
ashmoleanbirdsalternating PDF

ashmoleanbirdsleftfacing This textile is also plain woven linen embroidered with red silk, 10th-15th century C.E. found in Egypt. The size is 43 cm by 47 cm. However, there is a selvedge on the left hand side of the textile. It is currently in the Ashmolean Museum Accession number EA1993.195. I have charted up the embroidery design. It is available for download as a pdf.
ashmoleanleftfacingbirds PDF

ashmoleanbirdsrightfacing This textile is also plain woven linen embroidered with silk (blue), 10th-15th century C.E. from Egypt. It is 21 cm by 17 cm with a crude seam on the right side of the textile, sewn with flax. The textile is in the Ashmolean Museum Accession number EA1993.185. I have charted up the design and it is available for download in pdf format.
ashmoleanrightfacingbirds

ashmoleandoublebirds This textile is like the previous- plain woven linen embroidered with red silk, made between the 10th-15th century C.E in Egypt. The size is 18 cm by 11.7 cm with a rolled hem in flax on the left side of the textile. It is currently in the Ashmolean Museum Accession number EA1993.194. The chart is available as pdf to download.
ashmoleandoublebirds PDF

Please let me know how the charts go! For more information on bird symbolism please read Birds in Islamic Culture (blog), The Conference of the Birds, and The Simurgh.

An interpretive embroidery

b6127 This textile is cream coloured mulham (silk-linen blend) worked with couched metal thread (gold wound on cream silk), with brown, cream, light green and light blue silk thread worked in split stitch. Done over two pieces that were then sewn together, the textile is 11cm by 9cm. It is currently in the Museum of Fine Arts Accesssion number 31.445. It is linked to two other textiles in the Museum, specifically Accession number 31.443 and Accession number 31.444 although the records differ, with the other textile saying that it is Mesopotamian from the 10th-11th century.

I have done my own interpretation of the embroidery, with linen as a background cloth, using Gumnut Yarns silk perle thread and gilt smooth passing thread on a silk core.
dscn0388 My colour choices were based on article History of Dyes Used in Different Historical Periods of Egypt by Omar Abdel-Kareem.
The reverse-
dscn0391
I am unsure of the date of the embroidery, so any information would be welcome!

A textile with crosses in diamonds

ashmolean-crossesindiamonds This textile was thought to have been made in Egypt between the 10th to 15th century C.E. It is tabby woven linen embroidered in dark blue silk in double running stitch. The design is 9.3cm wide, while the whole textile is 20 cm by 22 cm. There is a selvedge on the right side of the textile. It is currently in the Ashmolean Museum, EA1984.546.

I have charted up the design for use. It’s in PDF format. Let me know how it goes!
ashmoleancrossesindiamonds PDF

Textile embroidered with pink and blue quatrefoils

ashmoleanblueandpinkquatrefoils This textile was thought to have been made between the 10th and 15th century C.E. in Egypt. It is plain woven linen, embroidered in double running stitch in blue and pink silk. There are three rolled hems along the top, bottom, and right hand side of the textile. It is 19.5 cm wide by 12.5 cm high.

It is currently in the Ashmolean Museum, accession number EA1984.408.

I have charted up the design. It is available as a pdf.
ashmoleanblueandpinkquatrefoils PDF

Good luck!