Sorry for not posting this sooner, but mundane life has been distracting me from the pure research. So I thought to get everything rolling by posting the product of previous research. Having done research into Persian cloud collars in 2015 (the post can be read at “My own Persian cloud collar research”) and having commissioned two Persian Timurid coats through my friend at Mikhaila’s Unmentionables, I finally followed through with embroidery plans.
I decided to do a collar that sat proud of the coat, but was attached at the neck. First step is to create a template.
The third template design, which can be done up & go around the neck.
Having settled on the template, I used two layers of silk and linen which would eventually be lined with white linen.
This is two layers, sewn quickly together and marked out with a soluble pen.
The design itself is quite complex scrolling. The stitch I chose to work in Au ver a Soie indigo silk thread was stem stitch. I eventually regretted this choice, as it was painful on the hands.
This stage took quite a while to get to. I had given myself a deadline of 12th Night.
The final result-
The collar the night before the event. Still damp from preparations.
I entered it into the Lochac Arts & Sciences competition with the topic of “from the Middle East”. I won!
Now that the recipient has gotten their gift (and seems to be enjoying it), I can share pictures of a project that took up quite a bit of time.
The Worshipful Company of Broderers in the Kingdom of Lochac has a tradition that the Guild makes a gift to each reigning set of monarchs. It is the choice of those that have reigned what they would like to receive. I volunteered to do a towel, in pattern darning stitch.
Done on linen with au Ver a Soie silk, it is embroidered at both ends.
This piece has been graded as my second Masterwork for the Guild.
My documentation- wcob gift documentation
This textile was made in Egypt between 1250 and 1500 C.E. It is linen, embroidered with red silk in two distinct patterns. It is 14 cm by 19 cm. There are two rolled hems on the left and right sides. It is thought that it is a possible scarf or girdle. The textile is in the V&A Museum, Accession number 804-1898. The embroidery at the bottom of the textile is almost the same design as a textile in the Ashmolean, which can be read about in a previous post “A new embroidery chart with chevrons and diamond shapes”.
I have charted the top design. It is available as a pdf.
Let me know how you find it!
This flask is made from blue hand blown glass, with a stopper covered in fabric and attached by a cord to the flask’s fabric case.
The flask’s fabric case is made from linen, embroidered with blue flax and done in pulled thread work.
As seen, the stitches also involve a stitch known as a dove’s eye. The bag was also stuffed with vegetable fibres, possibly for insulation. The size (including the bag) is 13.5cm height with 11 width and 1.5 cm depth.
The pilgrim’s flask in currently in the Ashmolean Museum and thought to have been made between 14th and 15th Century C.E.
This textile was made in Egypt between the 10th-15th century C.E. It is 21.5 cm long and 19 cm wide(the embroidery is 13 cm). It is linen embroidered in blue flax. The textile is in the Ashmolean Museum Accession number EA1984.539.
I have charted it up. It is available for download as a pdf-
Instead of asking how everyone else finds the chart, I did a handkerchief as a gift to Their Majesties Rowland and Tailltiu.
This sampler is one have been working on the last few months. It is based on Mamluk samplers I have charted over the years, which are available for download on the Embroidery charts page.
I had written up documentation, which may be of interest. It is available as a pdf.
It was done for a competition for the Worshipful Company of Broderers in the Kingdom of Lochac. For the Lochac Kingdom event of 12th Night, the topic of the competition was working sampler. I won! The item has also been graded as a masterwork.
This textile is Egyptian, made between the 10th-15th century C.E. It is a base fabric of plain woven linen, embroidered in double running stitch in blue and brown silk.
The textile is 21 cm high by 18.5 cm wide, with three rolled hems. It is likely that this is a decorated end of a larger textile, possibly a sash. The textile is currently in the Ashmolean Museum.
There is not much left of the original embroidery, so I extrapolated what the chart would be completely filled.
Please let me know if there are any issues downloading the PDF.