Some children’s wool tunics from early Medieval Egypt

copticegypt10thcenttunic This tunic is made from check pattern wool with linen. It is 75.5 cm high and 77 cm wide. The neckline is decorated with rolled wool fabric, which is gathered into a button at the end. The tunic was thought to have been made between 880-990 C.E. It is currently in the Whitworth Art Gallery, Accession number T.9885.

Copticwooltunic10thcent This tunic is made from wool that has been decorated with pattern darning (in brown wool) and appliqued linen bands of geometric design. Thought to have been cut down from an adult tunic, the manufacture dates fall between 800-999 C.E. The tunic is 45.5 cm high and 51 cm wide. It is currently in the Whitworth Art Gallery, Accession number T.8549.

coptic8thcenttunic This woolen tunic has been made from one single piece of wool, folded over with goes inserted on the sides. It is 46 cm high and 48 cm wide. Also thought to have been cut down from an adult’s tunic, the seams have been sewn in blue and red thread with the front and back of the tunic heavily darned with threads of many different colours. The neckline and sleeves have also been decorated with appliqued wool and linen bands. The tunic is currently in the Whitworth Art Gallery, Accession number T.8505.

coptictunic7thcent This red woolen tunic is also made from one single piece of fabric, folded over. There is decorative stitching in orange, yellow, turquoise, and dark blue thread. The neckline and sleeves are also decorated with appliqued wool and linen bands with geometric patterns. The tunic is 76.5 cm high and 61 cm wide. The tunic is currently in the Whitworth Art Gallery, Accession number T.8377.

Recommended reading
Weaving in Coptic Egypt. Via the California Academy of Sciences.

Coptic dress in Egypt: the social life of Medieval cloth by Bazinet, M. In the Textile Society of America Proceedings 1992. PDF document.

Coptic Tunics in the Metropolitan Museum of Art by Dimand, M.S. JStor article.

Late Coptic Embroideries by Shepherd, Dorothy G. JStor article.

The Evolution of Two Traditional Coptic Tape Patterns: Further Observations on the Classification of Coptic Textiles by Thompson, Deborah. JStor article.

A pattern darned textile

ashmoleanslantedpatterndarning This textile was thought to have been made in Egypt between the 10th and 15th century C.E. It is linen embroidered in dark blue silk in a pattern darning stitch. The textile is 29 cm by 33 cm, with three hemmed sides (in flax) and one side the selvedge.

The design has four prominent parallel lines, which has the design running in one direction, as grouped by the two sides. The broken parallel lines (that look as though they run behind the first four lines) have the design reversing.

The textile can be seen at the Ashmolean Museum.

I have charted the design. If you are concerned over the directions of the design please check out the extant on the above link!

ashmoleanslantingpatterndarning PDF

Let me know how the chart works!

A new pattern darning and cross stitch sampler

ashmoleanpatterndarningsampler This embroidery sampler is made from linen, embroidered with blue and green flax, as well as red silk. It is thought to have been made between the 10th-15th century C.E. in Egypt. The dimensions are 21.5 cm by 12 cm. It is currently in the Ashmolean Museum in the research collection.

On the sampler there are 5 complete pattern darning designs and one long arm cross stitch design. There are four other incomplete designs on the sampler. I have charted up the complete designs but if there is interest in some of the incomplete, then I can post them. Just let me know.

The placement-
ashmoleanpatterndarningsamplerplacement

ashmoleanpatterndarning1 (PDF)
ashmoleanpatterndarning2 (PDF)
ashmoleanpatterndarning3 (PDF)
ashmoleanpatterndarning4 (PDF)
ashmoleanpatterndarning5 (PDF)
ashmoleanlacrossstitch (PDF) (which has the number 6 in the picture)

Enjoy!

The second possible tunic embroidery

textilecanada1 This textile was made in Egypt between the 14th and 15th century. It is linen embroidered with red and blue silk, with a flat felled seam. It is 15.3 cm long and 49.6 cm wide. It is currently in the Textile Museum of Canada.

The textile is embroidered in double running stitch and pattern darning. I have charted up the design. It is available in pdf format.

textilemusofcantunic (pdf)

Good Luck!

A new mixed embroidery sampler

walterssamplermamluk This is a sampler with pattern darning, double running stitch and counted satin stitch. Made between the 14th and 15th century in Mamluk controlled Egypt, it is linen embroidered in silk, 14 cm by 27.4 cm. It is thought to have been a professional embroiderer’s sampler, possibly to show clients the work and design the embroiderer did. The sampler is in the Walters Art Museum.

There are twelve unique embroidery designs on this sampler. I have charted up this sampler, with the files available in pdf format.
walterssamplerlayout
The first three patterns are all pattern darning.
walterssamplerpattern1 (pdf)
walterssamplerpattern2 (pdf)
walterssamplerpattern3 (pdf)

The forth design is a mix of counted satin stitch, double running stitch and pattern darning.
walterssamplerpattern4 (pdf)

The fifth to eighth design are all pattern darning.
walterssamplerpattern5 (pdf)
walterssamplerpattern6 (pdf)
walterssamplerpattern7 (pdf)
walterssamplerpattern8 (pdf)

Pattern nine and ten are a blackwork design. I have completed pattern nine, which would be reversible.
walterssamplerpattern9 (pdf)
walterssamplerpattern10 (pdf)

Pattern eleven is the first Egyptian blackwork I have seen that would not be reversible (in my opinion).
walterssamplerpattern11 (pdf)

I have only done one of the two reversed pattern darning designs for pattern twelve. However, the other half of the design can be extrapolated from the chart.
walterssamplerpattern12

Please let me know how you find the charts.

Early period embroidered Egyptian textiles

egyptian6thcentemb This is a 6th century textile found in Egypt. It is a plain weave linen embroidered in a regular pattern. The textile is 10 cm by 8 cm. It is currently in the Metroplitan Museum of Art.

egyptian6thcentbw This textile is also from the 6th century & Egypt. It is made from wool & plain woven linen. The Metropolitan Museum of Art says the textile is tapestry woven, but it does look like a style of pattern darning. It is 10.6 cm by 6 cm.

embroidered6thto7th This textile was made between the 6th-7th century. It is made of plain woven linen with wool embroidery and is 14.6 cm by 10 cm. Possibly in running and stem stitch. It is in the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

tapestryembroidered7thto9th This textile is from the 7th-9th century. It is a tapestry woven textile of linen and wool with embroidery. The back of the textile- backtapestrywovenembroidery The textile is 8.3 cm by 10.2 cm. It is in the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Pattern darning chart

artinstitutepatterndarning This textile is 9.7cm by 10.2cm. Made in Egypt between the 13th and 14th century, it is plain weave linen embroidered in red silk floss in running stitch and pattern darning. The textile is currently in the Art Institute of Chicago.

I have charted up the design and it is available for download in pdf format-

artinstitutepatterndarning (PDF)

Please let me know how it goes.

Technicalities- there are 66 threads between the top pattern darning and main pattern. The straight lines are the running stitch.