A new embroidery chart with chevrons and diamond shapes

ashmoleanchevronsanddiamonds This textile is thought to have been made between the 10th and 15th century C.E. in Egypt. It is linen, embroidered in dark blue silk in double running stitch.

The dimensions are 5cm high by 12 cm wide. On the very right of the textile is the selvedge. The textile is currently in the Ashmolean Museum.

I have drawn up the chart. Let me know how it goes!

ashmoleanchevronanddiamonds pdf

Goldwork from 10th-12th century Egypt and Syria

fatimidgoldearrings10thcent These earring were thought to have been made between the 10th and 11th century in either Egypt or Syria. At the time the area was ruled by the Fatimid dynasty. The earrings are a combination of sheet, wire, filigree, and granulation work. The first earring is 6.4 cm high and 3.3 cm wide; the second is 6.7 cm high and 3.3 cm wide. The earrings are currently in the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

fatimidgoldring11thcent This ring was thought to have been made in the 11th century in either Fatimid ruled Egypt or Syria. It is made of gold in sheets, decorated with filigree and granulation. The ring is 2.7 cm high and 2.5 cm wide. The diametre is 1.4 cm and the weight of the ring is 5.7 grams. The ring is currently in the Metropolitan Museum of Art where there are more pictures to see.

fatimidgoldpendant11thcent This pendant was also thought to have been made in the 11th century Egypt. It is a rare enamelled piece, made from gold sheet, decorated with filigree, wire work, and inset with turquoise. The enamel itself was later glued into place after the design had been finished. The pendant is 4.5 cm high and 3.5 cm wide. The pendant is in the Metropolitan Museum of Art where there are many other pictures, including one of the back.

ayyubidgoldbelt12thcent This gold belt buckle was thought to have been made in 12th century Syria, which at the time was ruled by the Ayyubid dynasty. It is 10cm long, made of twin plates to cover the end of the leather. The gold buckle has extruded knobs and bosses while the front plate is decorated with a cartouche of a falcon attacking a bird. It was sold by Christies for £17,250 (or $28,683).

Recommended reading

Near Eastern Jewelry: A Picture Book by Dimand, M. S. and H. E. McAllister. Available for download via the Met or read online through Google Books.

Mamluk jewelry: influences and echoes by Jenkins, M. As published in Muqarnas: An Annual on Islamic Art and Architecture, Vol 3.

Islamic Jewelry in The Metropolitan Museum of Art by Jenkins, M. and Keene, M. Available for download via the Met or read online through Google Books.

The veil of Sainte Anne

veilofstanne This textile is known as the veil of Sainte Anne, which is kept in the basilica of Sainte Anne in Apt, France. The legend had it that the veil was found in a vault under the basilica.

However, it is a textile that originated from Damietta in Fatimid Egypt, in the 11th century C.E. It is 310 cm wide and 152 cm high, made from linen with tapestry woven roundels of animals, mythical animals, plants and tiraz.
veilofsaintannedetail
It is now thought to have been plunder of the 1st Crusade, although the first mention of it in the records in Apt is 1714. It is very well preserved, as it is mostly stored in a glass flask unless it is the Sainte Anne´s feast day. The selvages are on both sides of the fabric, so was woven with the width of 310 cm. It has three tapestry woven designs, made from silk and gold thread. The large roundel reads-

Alī is the friend of God; may God bless him. Imam Abu-l-Qāsim al-Musta’lī billah, emir of the Believers, may God bless him, his pure-hearted ancestors and his very worthy descendants

The tiraz on the sides reads-

This is what was made in the private weaving factory at Damietta in the year ….9

which isolates the date to either 1096 or 1097 C.E.

The textile is thought to be a back of a khila´ or ceremonial gifted robe known as an ‘abā which is a sleeveless coat.

Recommended reading
Writing Signs: The Fatimid Public Text by Irene A. Bierman. Via Google Books.

The veil of Saint Anne by H. A. Elsberg and R. Guest. The Burlington Magazine for Connoisseurs, Vol. 68, No. 396 (Mar., 1936), pp. 140+144-145+147. Via JStor.

Symbols of Power by Louise Mackie. Via Google Books.

Qantara: Veil of Saint Anne.

An embroidery once more

ashmoleanquartrefoilsandsquares This textile was thought to have been made between the 10th and 15th centuries in Egypt. It is linen, embroidered in blue and pink silk in a quartrefoil pattern linked by squares. There is also a rolled hem in yellow silk at the bottom of the textile.

The textile is 24 cm by 13 cm. Thread count of the linen is 22 threads per cm. The embroidered band itself is 7.3 cm. It is currently in the Ashmolean Museum.

There is a chart of the design here-
ashmoleanquartrefoilsandsquares PDF

Let me know how it goes!

A new complex double running embroidery

ashmoleaneightpointedstar This embroidered textile was made in Egypt between the 10th and 15th century C.E. It is even weave linen, 13 cm by 7.5 cm and embroidered in blue and brown silk in double running stitch. The design has a central eight pointed star, surrounded in squares with crosses and blue triangles. The main design is edged with continuous vines.

The textile is currently in the Ashmolean Museum.

It is my opinion that the embroidery is closer to the 15th century than the 10th. I have charted up the design and would love to know how it goes!

ashmoleaneightpointstar PDF

A new pattern darning chart

ashmoleancontinuouss This textile was thought to have been made between the 10th and 15th centuries in Egypt. It is a kerchief or square cover that is linen embroidered in blue and brown silk. The textile is 28.5 by 26 cm, embroidered in eight pattern darning bands with a width of 1 cm. The kerchief is currently in the Ashmolean Museum.

I have charted up the design. It is in pdf format-
ashmoleancontinuouss PDF

I also used the design in an embroidery competition in my Kingdom. I will edit the post later to add a picture, as I currently don’t have one. I will also upload a pdf of my documentation-
WCob3 PDF

Let me know how you find the chart!

Some children’s wool tunics from early Medieval Egypt

copticegypt10thcenttunic This tunic is made from check pattern wool with linen. It is 75.5 cm high and 77 cm wide. The neckline is decorated with rolled wool fabric, which is gathered into a button at the end. The tunic was thought to have been made between 880-990 C.E. It is currently in the Whitworth Art Gallery, Accession number T.9885.

Copticwooltunic10thcent This tunic is made from wool that has been decorated with pattern darning (in brown wool) and appliqued linen bands of geometric design. Thought to have been cut down from an adult tunic, the manufacture dates fall between 800-999 C.E. The tunic is 45.5 cm high and 51 cm wide. It is currently in the Whitworth Art Gallery, Accession number T.8549.

coptic8thcenttunic This woolen tunic has been made from one single piece of wool, folded over with goes inserted on the sides. It is 46 cm high and 48 cm wide. Also thought to have been cut down from an adult’s tunic, the seams have been sewn in blue and red thread with the front and back of the tunic heavily darned with threads of many different colours. The neckline and sleeves have also been decorated with appliqued wool and linen bands. The tunic is currently in the Whitworth Art Gallery, Accession number T.8505.

coptictunic7thcent This red woolen tunic is also made from one single piece of fabric, folded over. There is decorative stitching in orange, yellow, turquoise, and dark blue thread. The neckline and sleeves are also decorated with appliqued wool and linen bands with geometric patterns. The tunic is 76.5 cm high and 61 cm wide. The tunic is currently in the Whitworth Art Gallery, Accession number T.8377.

Recommended reading
Weaving in Coptic Egypt. Via the California Academy of Sciences.

Coptic dress in Egypt: the social life of Medieval cloth by Bazinet, M. In the Textile Society of America Proceedings 1992. PDF document.

Coptic Tunics in the Metropolitan Museum of Art by Dimand, M.S. JStor article.

Late Coptic Embroideries by Shepherd, Dorothy G. JStor article.

The Evolution of Two Traditional Coptic Tape Patterns: Further Observations on the Classification of Coptic Textiles by Thompson, Deborah. JStor article.