Two similar embroideries

ashmoleantreesandmedallions This embroidery is from Egypt, although the Ashmolean Museum has the dates of construction between 10th to 15th century. It is linen embroidered with dark blue flax, 15.5 long and 13 cm wide. The “trees” have three different ovals, but not enough of the embroidery survives to see if a pattern developed.

I have charted up the pattern, which is available as a pdf-
ashmoleantreesandmedallions (pdf)

There is a similar embroidery in the Victoria & Albert Museum-
vandadouble This is the top embroidery, which is linen embroidered with dark blue silk and a twisted linen fringe. The “trees” have a slightly different design but the same oval designs as the embroidery in the Ashmolean Museum. The medallions are of the same dimensions but a slightly different filling design. The V&A Museum also give the dates of 1250-1516 C.E.

The pattern is available to download as a pdf document-
vandatreesandmedallions (pdf)

I have not charted up the bottom pattern darning embroidery, but will be doing it soon. Let me know how the embroidery goes!

A blackwork with quatrefoils

ashmoleanquatrefoil This Egyptian textile is plain woven linen embroidered with dark blue silk. At the top of the textile there is a rolled hem. It is 25 cm long and 24.5 cm wide. Thought to have been made between the 10th-15th century, it is possible that it is an end of a sash. The textile is in the Ashmolean Museum.

I have charted the design and it can be downloaded as a pdf-
ashmoleanquatrefoils (pdf)

Please let me know how the embroidery goes!

Mamluk embroidery on garb

necklinewithvinesandleaves This textile is a plain weave linen embroidered in brown silk. The seams have been sewn with flax. The size is 29 x 11 cm and is to be a yoke around the neck on a tunic. The design of the embroidery are vines, leaves and scroll work done in split stitch. It is currently at the Ashmolean Museum.

patterndarnedneckline This textile is also an embroidered linen yoke. However, it is pattern darned in pink and brown cotton going across the textile. The size is 36.5 x 32.5 cm. It is in the Ashmolean Museum.

interlockedstarsandrosettes This textile is linen, embroidered in undyed & beige silk in interlacing stars and rosettes. It is lined with linen. The textile can be found in the Ashmolean Museum.

Detail of the embroidery- detailofrosette I am unsure of the stitch used. The Museum has described this textile as being from a sleeve but the shape is similar to salwar (as can be seen in the previous post Mamluk salwar). Please let me know what you think of the textile.

A Roman-Egyptian sprang turban

sprangcapchildmummy This is a sprang woven turban found on the head of a child mummy, from the 3rd-4th century in Upper Egypt. The length is 68cm with a width of 40cm. It is a linen net. detailchildsprangturban The turban is in the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s book Textiles of Late Antiquity by Annemarie Stauffer can be downloaded in pdf format through the link.

The sprang pattern has been charted and can be seen in a YouTube video-
The Sojourning Spinner has created over 40 videos on sprang on her YouTube Channel.

Two Mamluk Egyptian bags

embroidereddrawstringbag This is an embroidered drawstring bag from between the 13th-16th centuries. It is tabby woven linen embroidered with pink, green, blue, yellow and ochre silk in an eyelet (or possibly a double faggot) stitch. embroideredbagdetail The size of the bag is 15.8 cm by 13.5 cm. It is in the Museum of Fine Arts.

embroideredlinenbag This is also a round embroidered bag made between the 13th & 16th century. It is tabby woven linen embroidered with blue and brown silk in chain and darning stitches (or possibly another type of stitch). This bag has a linen tassel attached with three knots at the end of the drawstring. The bag is in the Museum of Fine Arts.

Iranian and Afghani textiles

iranafghan7thcentembtextile This textile is split stitched silk on plain weave, made in the 7th century in either Iran, Afghanistan or China. Detail of the boar’s head roundel- boarheaddetail7thcent The textile is 56cm by 48cm. The textile has boars heads and peacocks embroidered on it. The textile is in the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

iranian14thcentchemise This textile is from the 14th century. It is cotton embroidered with birds, floral scrolls and calligraphy in brown thread. It has a height of 130cm and is 47cm wide at the waist. It is in the Dar al-Athar al-Islamiyyah Museum, but the site doesn’t have much more information.

afghan14thcentchemise This chemise is also 14th century, from Afghanistan. It is also plain weave cotton, embroidered in black cotton. The design of the embroidery are rosettes, with an indigo band around the neck. It was sold at Christies for £11,950 ($17,292).

A child’s dress from the 7th-9th century

childsdress9thcent This is a child’s dress, found in Akhmim, Egypt. Thought to have been made between the 7th and 9th centuries. The reverse- reversechildsdress
The dress is made from madder dyed plain-woven wool, with applied woven border made from blue and red wool with undyed linen.necklinedetail The neckline is a keyhole, but the straight part runs along the shoulder. It is closed tight by a fabric button. The hems seem to have been done in double running stitch. hemdetail The dress is 52.1 cm high and 64.9 cm wide. It is in the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Some Coptic shawls

shawl3rd4thcentshawldetail3rd4thcent This shawl is from between the 3rd and 4th century C.E. The Egyptian shawl is plain weave linen, with a tapestry weave decoration sewn on. The size of the shawl is 70 cm by 45 cm. It is currently in the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

browncopticshawl8th9thcent This shawl has been tapestry woven with wool and linen between the 8th and 9th century. It is 21.9 cm by 33 cm. It is also has Coptic script on it, as opposed to tiraz bands with Arabic. It is currently in the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

darkcopticshawl8th9thcent Also made between the 8th and 9th century, this particular shawl is wool, tapestry woven with linen decorations. There is also Coptic script. It is 33 cm high by 79.4 cm wide. It is in the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

copticshawl9th10thcent This shawl is much like the others- wool and linen tapestry woven with Coptic script. However by this stage there were also Arabic tiraz becoming the fashion from the Abbasid and Fatimid Empires. The shawl is in the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

A 12th-14th century Egyptian tunic

ayyubidtunic This tunic was thought to have been made between 1100-1399 C.E. which covers the Fatimid and Ayyubid rulers of Egypt. The shirt is embroidered linen. Unfortunately there is no other information on the Victoria & Albert Museum website. The item is currently not being shown. Scrolling in it is possible to see that the motifs look like fish and “lollywrappers”. Both of those motifs look to be done in pattern darning with a little running stitch highlighting the seams.

The construction of the shirt is the same as the shirt previously mentioned in the post “An Egyptian Child’s tunic from the Mamluk Period”. childtunicmamluk That shirt can be found in the Ashmolean Museum.

Different but similar embroideries

This is thought to be a fragment of a garment, made between the 13th and 14th century in al -A’zam in Upper Egypt. At this time the rulers would have been Mamluk. This is a linen even weave, with silk blackwork, pulled thread and openwork. The openwork is kloster blocks with doves’ eye stitch. The detail- The pattern has been charted by Mathilde Eschenbach which she also used in a project. The textile is in the Victoria & Albert Museum.

This embroidery is very similar to the previous textile with some small differences- This textile is unfortunately in pieces, but the design is on linen out of blue and yellow silk. There is blackwork, pulled thread and openwork like the first textile but this embroidery also has silk satin stitching. The pattern is also repeated like the first textile, which can be seen in this piece- The main piece is 17.3 x 11 cm and can be found in the Ashmolean. The other pieces can be found in the Ashmolean Museum.