A third possible tunic embroidery

ashmoleantunic2 This textile is Egyptian, made between the 10th and 15th century. It is 47 cm long and 5 cm wide. It is linen embroidered with tree designs in blue silk and a hem in brown silk. There are also two seams, one flat felled in the textile. It is currently in the Ashmolean Museum.

I have charted up the tree design. It is available in pdf format.
ashmoleantunic2 (pdf)

More tunic inspiration!

The second possible tunic embroidery

textilecanada1 This textile was made in Egypt between the 14th and 15th century. It is linen embroidered with red and blue silk, with a flat felled seam. It is 15.3 cm long and 49.6 cm wide. It is currently in the Textile Museum of Canada.

The textile is embroidered in double running stitch and pattern darning. I have charted up the design. It is available in pdf format.

textilemusofcantunic (pdf)

Good Luck!

The first possible tunic embroidery

ashmoleantunic1 This textile was made between the 10th-15th centuries in Egypt. It is linen embroidered with brown silk with flax thread in the seams. The size is 26 cm long and 12 cm wide. It is currently in the Ashmolean Museum.

I have charted up the design. It is available in pdf format.

ashmoleantunic1 (pdf)

Have fun!

Three Coptic tunics and a hat

coptnecklinetextilemeseum This textile is 64 cm long and 114 cm wide. It is made of plain woven linen with wool tapestry weave inserts. It was made by Coptic Egyptians between the 9th and 12th centuries C.E. It is currently in the Textile Museum of Canada. There is a zoom view available on the page.

coptictunic1textilemuseum This textile is 105 cm long and 122 cm wide. It is wool, with tapestry woven inserts of bird decorations and thought to have been made between the 6th and 7th centuries. The bottoms of the tunic is fringed. The tunic is in the Textile Museum of Canada. The tunic has a zoom view available on the page.

coptictunic2textilemueum This tunic is 76.7 cm long and 112.3 cm wide. It is made of plain woven linen, with wool tapestry woven inserts and appliqué. It was thought to have been made between the 7th and 9th centuries. The tunic is currently in the Textile Museum of Canada. There is a zoom view available on the page.

coptichattextilemuseum This hat is 13.3 cm long and 16.6 cm wide with a circumference of 44.5 cm at the bottom of the hat. It is made of plain woven linen between the 5th and 9th centuries. The bottom was thought to have ear flaps. It is currently in the Textile Museum of Canada. There is a zoom view of the hat on the page.

Ottoman children’s Memento Mori

In 1595, Mehmet III in taking the throne of his father Murad III, ordered the execution of his 19 brothers. While this was done to stop any civil turmoil over the inheritance of the throne, it caused a backlash and was never repeated.

These kaftans were placed over the grave of the boys.
vandachildkaftanzigzag This kaftan is 83 cm high, with a hem line of 78.2 cm. It is made of brocaded silk with zigzags filled with cintāmaṇi. It is in the Victoria and Albert Museum.

CIS:752A-1884 This kaftan is is brocaded silk and gold wrapped thread in roundel patterns. The kaftan is currently on display in the Victoria and Albert Museum.

vandachildkaftancresent This kaftan has a height of 79.8 cm and a hem line of 79.8 cm. It is currently in the Victoria and Albert Museum.

vandachildkaftantulip This kaftan has a height of 76.7 cm and a hem line length of 50.2 cm. It is made of silk lampas, with metal wrapped silk thread woven throughout. It is currently in the Victoria and Albert Museum.

vandachildkaftantiger This kaftan is a silk lampas weave in a tiger stripe pattern. It has a length of 71 cm and a hem line length of 78.5 cm. It is currently in the Victoria and Albert Museum.

Recommended reading
The Renaissance and the Ottoman World edited by Anna Contadini, Claire Norton. Via Google Books.

Courtly Encounters: Translating Courtliness and Violence in Early Modern Eurasia edited by
Sanjay Subrahmanyam. Via JStor.

Islamic textiles & dress reading list as suggested by the Victoria and Albert Museum.

The Rålamb Costume Book via the National Library of Sweden.

Two similar embroideries

ashmoleantreesandmedallions This embroidery is from Egypt, although the Ashmolean Museum has the dates of construction between 10th to 15th century. It is linen embroidered with dark blue flax, 15.5 long and 13 cm wide. The “trees” have three different ovals, but not enough of the embroidery survives to see if a pattern developed.

I have charted up the pattern, which is available as a pdf-
ashmoleantreesandmedallions (pdf)

There is a similar embroidery in the Victoria & Albert Museum-
vandadouble This is the top embroidery, which is linen embroidered with dark blue silk and a twisted linen fringe. The “trees” have a slightly different design but the same oval designs as the embroidery in the Ashmolean Museum. The medallions are of the same dimensions but a slightly different filling design. The V&A Museum also give the dates of 1250-1516 C.E.

The pattern is available to download as a pdf document-
vandatreesandmedallions (pdf)

I have not charted up the bottom pattern darning embroidery, but will be doing it soon. Let me know how the embroidery goes!

A blackwork with quatrefoils

ashmoleanquatrefoil This Egyptian textile is plain woven linen embroidered with dark blue silk. At the top of the textile there is a rolled hem. It is 25 cm long and 24.5 cm wide. Thought to have been made between the 10th-15th century, it is possible that it is an end of a sash. The textile is in the Ashmolean Museum.

I have charted the design and it can be downloaded as a pdf-
ashmoleanquatrefoils (pdf)

Please let me know how the embroidery goes!

Mamluk embroidery on garb

necklinewithvinesandleaves This textile is a plain weave linen embroidered in brown silk. The seams have been sewn with flax. The size is 29 x 11 cm and is to be a yoke around the neck on a tunic. The design of the embroidery are vines, leaves and scroll work done in split stitch. It is currently at the Ashmolean Museum.

patterndarnedneckline This textile is also an embroidered linen yoke. However, it is pattern darned in pink and brown cotton going across the textile. The size is 36.5 x 32.5 cm. It is in the Ashmolean Museum.

interlockedstarsandrosettes This textile is linen, embroidered in undyed & beige silk in interlacing stars and rosettes. It is lined with linen. The textile can be found in the Ashmolean Museum.

Detail of the embroidery- detailofrosette I am unsure of the stitch used. The Museum has described this textile as being from a sleeve but the shape is similar to salwar (as can be seen in the previous post Mamluk salwar). Please let me know what you think of the textile.

A Roman-Egyptian sprang turban

sprangcapchildmummy This is a sprang woven turban found on the head of a child mummy, from the 3rd-4th century in Upper Egypt. The length is 68cm with a width of 40cm. It is a linen net. detailchildsprangturban The turban is in the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s book Textiles of Late Antiquity by Annemarie Stauffer can be downloaded in pdf format through the link.

The sprang pattern has been charted and can be seen in a YouTube video-
The Sojourning Spinner has created over 40 videos on sprang on her YouTube Channel.

Two Mamluk Egyptian bags

embroidereddrawstringbag This is an embroidered drawstring bag from between the 13th-16th centuries. It is tabby woven linen embroidered with pink, green, blue, yellow and ochre silk in an eyelet (or possibly a double faggot) stitch. embroideredbagdetail The size of the bag is 15.8 cm by 13.5 cm. It is in the Museum of Fine Arts.

embroideredlinenbag This is also a round embroidered bag made between the 13th & 16th century. It is tabby woven linen embroidered with blue and brown silk in chain and darning stitches (or possibly another type of stitch). This bag has a linen tassel attached with three knots at the end of the drawstring. The bag is in the Museum of Fine Arts.