Pattern darning

Recently I have been trying my hand at pattern darning, a type of embroidery that was used by the Mamluks in the 12th &13th centuries. Other types of embroidery done were blackstitch or Holbein. There are many examples of these embroideries in the Ashmolean at the Yousef Jameel Online Centre, where the book by Marianne Ellis Embroidery and Samplers of Islamic Egypt is able to be read online (or purchased, if you wish).

 

Two types

Two different pattern darning patterns with a third pattern in the background

 

I used the pattern on Mathilde Eschenbach’s Charts for Medieval Middle Eastern Counted-thread Embroidery page for all of the ones I have tried to do, including this one-

Such designs were used to decorate chemises, shirts, salwar and the cloak-type wraps called an izar or mula’a (around the hems).

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