This textile is an Egyptian linen embroidered in blue flax. It is 13 cm wide and 8 cm high with a rolled hem at the top of the textile. The narrow embroidery band on the left is 0.5 cm wide and the larger embroidery is 7.7 cm wide. The embroidery was to the very edge of the textile and is in the rolled hem.
The textile is in the Ashmolean Museum. It is thought to have been made between the 10th and 15th centuries.
I have charted up the embroidery design and it can be downloaded in pdf format-
Let me know how it goes!
This is a sampler with pattern darning, double running stitch and counted satin stitch. Made between the 14th and 15th century in Mamluk controlled Egypt, it is linen embroidered in silk, 14 cm by 27.4 cm. It is thought to have been a professional embroiderer’s sampler, possibly to show clients the work and design the embroiderer did. The sampler is in the Walters Art Museum.
There are twelve unique embroidery designs on this sampler. I have charted up this sampler, with the files available in pdf format.
The first three patterns are all pattern darning.
The forth design is a mix of counted satin stitch, double running stitch and pattern darning.
The fifth to eighth design are all pattern darning.
Pattern nine and ten are a blackwork design. I have completed pattern nine, which would be reversible.
Pattern eleven is the first Egyptian blackwork I have seen that would not be reversible (in my opinion).
I have only done one of the two reversed pattern darning designs for pattern twelve. However, the other half of the design can be extrapolated from the chart.
Please let me know how you find the charts.
This textile is an even weave linen, embroidered in dark blue cotton. It is 12.5 cm high and 11.5 cm wide and thought to have been made between the 10th and 15th centuries. It is currently in the Ashmolean Museum.
I have charted up the design, as well as attempt to embroider it. The chart is available for download in pdf format-
Let me know how it works out!
This textile was thought to have been made between the 10th-15th centuries. The textile is a plain weave linen embroidered in dark blue silk. The chequering is done with fylfots. The textile is 21.5 cm high by 13 cm wide and is currently in the Ashmolean Museum.
The design has been charted & is available as a pdf document-
The timeline given covers Egyptian history from the Abbasid Caliphate to the Mamluks. I personally think that the textile is Mamluk, but I am happy to be corrected. In the textile itself, only a few times are the fylfots reversed. The chart reflects this.
This textile is a plain weave linen embroidered in brown silk. The seams have been sewn with flax. The size is 29 x 11 cm and is to be a yoke around the neck on a tunic. The design of the embroidery are vines, leaves and scroll work done in split stitch. It is currently at the Ashmolean Museum.
This textile is also an embroidered linen yoke. However, it is pattern darned in pink and brown cotton going across the textile. The size is 36.5 x 32.5 cm. It is in the Ashmolean Museum.
This textile is linen, embroidered in undyed & beige silk in interlacing stars and rosettes. It is lined with linen. The textile can be found in the Ashmolean Museum.
Detail of the embroidery- I am unsure of the stitch used. The Museum has described this textile as being from a sleeve but the shape is similar to salwar (as can be seen in the previous post Mamluk salwar). Please let me know what you think of the textile.
This textile is 23 x 20 cm, linen embroidered in dark blue silk for the double running stitch, with light green and brown silk in the encroaching gobelin stitch. It is currently in the Ashmolean Museum.
I personally think that the stitch used to fill in the green and brown is gobelin, while the Museum calls it a “slanted counted filling stitch”. Here is a detail of one of the green sections- I am happy to be corrected.
The chart is a pdf document-
Let me know how the embroidery goes!
This is an embroidered drawstring bag from between the 13th-16th centuries. It is tabby woven linen embroidered with pink, green, blue, yellow and ochre silk in an eyelet (or possibly a double faggot) stitch. The size of the bag is 15.8 cm by 13.5 cm. It is in the Museum of Fine Arts.
This is also a round embroidered bag made between the 13th & 16th century. It is tabby woven linen embroidered with blue and brown silk in chain and darning stitches (or possibly another type of stitch). This bag has a linen tassel attached with three knots at the end of the drawstring. The bag is in the Museum of Fine Arts.
This textile is 9.7cm by 10.2cm. Made in Egypt between the 13th and 14th century, it is plain weave linen embroidered in red silk floss in running stitch and pattern darning. The textile is currently in the Art Institute of Chicago.
I have charted up the design and it is available for download in pdf format-
Please let me know how it goes.
Technicalities- there are 66 threads between the top pattern darning and main pattern. The straight lines are the running stitch.
This tunic was thought to have been made between 1100-1399 C.E. which covers the Fatimid and Ayyubid rulers of Egypt. The shirt is embroidered linen. Unfortunately there is no other information on the Victoria & Albert Museum website. The item is currently not being shown. Scrolling in it is possible to see that the motifs look like fish and “lollywrappers”. Both of those motifs look to be done in pattern darning with a little running stitch highlighting the seams.
The construction of the shirt is the same as the shirt previously mentioned in the post “An Egyptian Child’s tunic from the Mamluk Period”. That shirt can be found in the Ashmolean Museum.