Possible turban cloth or sash

ashmoleanlinkedquatrefoilssash This textile was thought to have been made in Egypt between the 10th-15th century C.E. It is linen embroidered with blue silk and metal wrapped with silver. The textile also has three rolled hems with silk. It is thought to be either a sash or a turban cloth.

The textile is in the Ashmolean Museum.

I have charted up the embroidery and it is available for download as a pdf document.

ashmoleanlinkdquatrefoilssash (pdf)

Let me know how your embroidery goes.

An embroidered Mamluk shawl

vandamamlukshawl This textile is from Egypt, made between 1250-1516 C.E. during the Mamluk Sultanate. It is a linen shawl, embroidered with silk in tree and bird motifs with tiraz at the bottom. The shawl is also tasseled. It is currently in the Victoria and Albert Museum.

I have charted it up, which can be downloaded as a pdf document-
vandamamlukshawl (pdf)

Please let me know how the chart goes!

Two similar embroideries

ashmoleantreesandmedallions This embroidery is from Egypt, although the Ashmolean Museum has the dates of construction between 10th to 15th century. It is linen embroidered with dark blue flax, 15.5 long and 13 cm wide. The “trees” have three different ovals, but not enough of the embroidery survives to see if a pattern developed.

I have charted up the pattern, which is available as a pdf-
ashmoleantreesandmedallions (pdf)

There is a similar embroidery in the Victoria & Albert Museum-
vandadouble This is the top embroidery, which is linen embroidered with dark blue silk and a twisted linen fringe. The “trees” have a slightly different design but the same oval designs as the embroidery in the Ashmolean Museum. The medallions are of the same dimensions but a slightly different filling design. The V&A Museum also give the dates of 1250-1516 C.E.

The pattern is available to download as a pdf document-
vandatreesandmedallions (pdf)

I have not charted up the bottom pattern darning embroidery, but will be doing it soon. Let me know how the embroidery goes!

An interlocking zigzag embroidery

interlockingzigzagashmolean This textile is an Egyptian linen embroidered in blue flax. It is 13 cm wide and 8 cm high with a rolled hem at the top of the textile. The narrow embroidery band on the left is 0.5 cm wide and the larger embroidery is 7.7 cm wide. The embroidery was to the very edge of the textile and is in the rolled hem.
interlockingzigzaghem
The textile is in the Ashmolean Museum. It is thought to have been made between the 10th and 15th centuries.

I have charted up the embroidery design and it can be downloaded in pdf format-
interlockingzigzag (pdf)

Let me know how it goes!

A new mixed embroidery sampler

walterssamplermamluk This is a sampler with pattern darning, double running stitch and counted satin stitch. Made between the 14th and 15th century in Mamluk controlled Egypt, it is linen embroidered in silk, 14 cm by 27.4 cm. It is thought to have been a professional embroiderer’s sampler, possibly to show clients the work and design the embroiderer did. The sampler is in the Walters Art Museum.

There are twelve unique embroidery designs on this sampler. I have charted up this sampler, with the files available in pdf format.
walterssamplerlayout
The first three patterns are all pattern darning.
walterssamplerpattern1 (pdf)
walterssamplerpattern2 (pdf)
walterssamplerpattern3 (pdf)

The forth design is a mix of counted satin stitch, double running stitch and pattern darning.
walterssamplerpattern4 (pdf)

The fifth to eighth design are all pattern darning.
walterssamplerpattern5 (pdf)
walterssamplerpattern6 (pdf)
walterssamplerpattern7 (pdf)
walterssamplerpattern8 (pdf)

Pattern nine and ten are a blackwork design. I have completed pattern nine, which would be reversible.
walterssamplerpattern9 (pdf)
walterssamplerpattern10 (pdf)

Pattern eleven is the first Egyptian blackwork I have seen that would not be reversible (in my opinion).
walterssamplerpattern11 (pdf)

I have only done one of the two reversed pattern darning designs for pattern twelve. However, the other half of the design can be extrapolated from the chart.
walterssamplerpattern12

Please let me know how you find the charts.

A diagonal embroidery with hooks

diagonalwithhooks This textile is an even weave linen, embroidered in dark blue cotton. It is 12.5 cm high and 11.5 cm wide and thought to have been made between the 10th and 15th centuries. It is currently in the Ashmolean Museum.

I have charted up the design, as well as attempt to embroider it. The chart is available for download in pdf format-
diagonalwithhooks PDF

Let me know how it works out!

A chequered embroidery

chequeredsquares This textile was thought to have been made between the 10th-15th centuries. The textile is a plain weave linen embroidered in dark blue silk. The chequering is done with fylfots. The textile is 21.5 cm high by 13 cm wide and is currently in the Ashmolean Museum.

The design has been charted & is available as a pdf document-
chequeredsquares (pdf)

The timeline given covers Egyptian history from the Abbasid Caliphate to the Mamluks. I personally think that the textile is Mamluk, but I am happy to be corrected. In the textile itself, only a few times are the fylfots reversed. The chart reflects this.

Mamluk embroidery on garb

necklinewithvinesandleaves This textile is a plain weave linen embroidered in brown silk. The seams have been sewn with flax. The size is 29 x 11 cm and is to be a yoke around the neck on a tunic. The design of the embroidery are vines, leaves and scroll work done in split stitch. It is currently at the Ashmolean Museum.

patterndarnedneckline This textile is also an embroidered linen yoke. However, it is pattern darned in pink and brown cotton going across the textile. The size is 36.5 x 32.5 cm. It is in the Ashmolean Museum.

interlockedstarsandrosettes This textile is linen, embroidered in undyed & beige silk in interlacing stars and rosettes. It is lined with linen. The textile can be found in the Ashmolean Museum.

Detail of the embroidery- detailofrosette I am unsure of the stitch used. The Museum has described this textile as being from a sleeve but the shape is similar to salwar (as can be seen in the previous post Mamluk salwar). Please let me know what you think of the textile.

A new chart with double running stitch and gobelin stitch

diamondashmolean This textile is 23 x 20 cm, linen embroidered in dark blue silk for the double running stitch, with light green and brown silk in the encroaching gobelin stitch. It is currently in the Ashmolean Museum.

I personally think that the stitch used to fill in the green and brown is gobelin, while the Museum calls it a “slanted counted filling stitch”. Here is a detail of one of the green sections- greendetail I am happy to be corrected.

The chart is a pdf document-

diamondashmolean (PDF)

Let me know how the embroidery goes!

Two Mamluk Egyptian bags

embroidereddrawstringbag This is an embroidered drawstring bag from between the 13th-16th centuries. It is tabby woven linen embroidered with pink, green, blue, yellow and ochre silk in an eyelet (or possibly a double faggot) stitch. embroideredbagdetail The size of the bag is 15.8 cm by 13.5 cm. It is in the Museum of Fine Arts.

embroideredlinenbag This is also a round embroidered bag made between the 13th & 16th century. It is tabby woven linen embroidered with blue and brown silk in chain and darning stitches (or possibly another type of stitch). This bag has a linen tassel attached with three knots at the end of the drawstring. The bag is in the Museum of Fine Arts.