Three Coptic tunics and a hat

coptnecklinetextilemeseum This textile is 64 cm long and 114 cm wide. It is made of plain woven linen with wool tapestry weave inserts. It was made by Coptic Egyptians between the 9th and 12th centuries C.E. It is currently in the Textile Museum of Canada. There is a zoom view available on the page.

coptictunic1textilemuseum This textile is 105 cm long and 122 cm wide. It is wool, with tapestry woven inserts of bird decorations and thought to have been made between the 6th and 7th centuries. The bottoms of the tunic is fringed. The tunic is in the Textile Museum of Canada. The tunic has a zoom view available on the page.

coptictunic2textilemueum This tunic is 76.7 cm long and 112.3 cm wide. It is made of plain woven linen, with wool tapestry woven inserts and appliqué. It was thought to have been made between the 7th and 9th centuries. The tunic is currently in the Textile Museum of Canada. There is a zoom view available on the page.

coptichattextilemuseum This hat is 13.3 cm long and 16.6 cm wide with a circumference of 44.5 cm at the bottom of the hat. It is made of plain woven linen between the 5th and 9th centuries. The bottom was thought to have ear flaps. It is currently in the Textile Museum of Canada. There is a zoom view of the hat on the page.

An octagon medallion embroidery

ashmoleanoctogon This textile was made in Egypt between the 10th-15th century C.E. It is linen embroidered with blue linen and the dimensions are 17 x 10 cm. The embroidery is 8.5 cm. The textile is currently in the Ashmolean Museum. I have charted up the design, which is available for download in pdf format. Let me know how it goes! ashmoleanoctagon (pdf)

Mudéjar textiles of Spain

mudejarlionsfacing This textile was thought to have been made in the 13th century by Mudéjar textile workers. The textile is 57.4 cm by 60.9 cm and made of linen with a silk twill weave. The textile is in the Art Institute of Chicago.

metmudejartextile This textile was thought to have been made in the 14th century. It is silk in a lampas weave. The textile is 102 cm by 36.3 cm and features calligraphic inscriptions. The word felicity (الغبطة) is in kufic script and is mirrored in the weave. In the cartouches are the words good luck and prosperity (والیمن والإقبال ) in nakshi script. The textile is in the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

clevelandmudejartextile1 This textile was thought to have been made in the 15th century. It is a silk lampas weave fragment, 34.2 cm by 25.2 cm. It is in the Cleveland Museum of Art.

metmudejarlampas This textile was thought to have been made around 1470 C.E. It is silk in a lampas weave. The size is 23.5 cm by 52.7 cm. The textile can be found in the Metropolitan Museum of Art. A matching textile can also be found in the Cleveland Museum of Art.
Recommended reading
Mudéjar Art by Museum with No Frontiers.
Symbol, Pattern and Symmetry: The Cultural Significance of Structure by Michael Hann. Via Google Books.
Under The Influence: Questioning the Comparative in Medieval Castile edited by Cynthia Robinson and Leyla Rouhi. Via Google Books.
Two Medieval Silks from Spain by Dorothy G. Shepherd. JStor article.
Textiles from Old Spain by Adele Coulin Weibel. JStor article.

A mixed sampler in the V&A Museum

2006AP0988 This textile is a linen sampler embroidered with silk. Made between the 15th-16th century in Egypt, it is 21cm high and 16.5cm wide. The textile was found in an Egyptian burial ground and was likely to have been the work of professional embroiderers. It is a mix of double running stitch and pattern darning. The textile is currently in the Victoria and Albert Museum.

I have charted up seven of the designs on the textile, although the textile had more designs that are no longer there. The layout-
vandamixedsamplerlayout
The charts are in pdf format-
vandamixedsamplerpattern1 (pdf)
vandamixedsampler2 (pdf)
vandamixedsampler3 (pdf)
vandamixedsampler4 (pdf)
vandamixedsampler5 (pdf)
vandamixedsampler6 (pdf)
vandamixedsampler7 (pdf)

Let me know how the embroidery goes!

Ottoman children’s Memento Mori

In 1595, Mehmet III in taking the throne of his father Murad III, ordered the execution of his 19 brothers. While this was done to stop any civil turmoil over the inheritance of the throne, it caused a backlash and was never repeated.

These kaftans were placed over the grave of the boys.
vandachildkaftanzigzag This kaftan is 83 cm high, with a hem line of 78.2 cm. It is made of brocaded silk with zigzags filled with cintāmaṇi. It is in the Victoria and Albert Museum.

CIS:752A-1884 This kaftan is is brocaded silk and gold wrapped thread in roundel patterns. The kaftan is currently on display in the Victoria and Albert Museum.

vandachildkaftancresent This kaftan has a height of 79.8 cm and a hem line of 79.8 cm. It is currently in the Victoria and Albert Museum.

vandachildkaftantulip This kaftan has a height of 76.7 cm and a hem line length of 50.2 cm. It is made of silk lampas, with metal wrapped silk thread woven throughout. It is currently in the Victoria and Albert Museum.

vandachildkaftantiger This kaftan is a silk lampas weave in a tiger stripe pattern. It has a length of 71 cm and a hem line length of 78.5 cm. It is currently in the Victoria and Albert Museum.

Recommended reading
The Renaissance and the Ottoman World edited by Anna Contadini, Claire Norton. Via Google Books.

Courtly Encounters: Translating Courtliness and Violence in Early Modern Eurasia edited by
Sanjay Subrahmanyam. Via JStor.

Islamic textiles & dress reading list as suggested by the Victoria and Albert Museum.

The Rålamb Costume Book via the National Library of Sweden.

A grid of lozenges embroidery

ashmoleanlozengegrid This textile was thought to have been made between the 10th and 15th centuries in Egypt. The textile is 15 cm by 11cm linen, embroidered in dark blue silk.

The textile is in the Ashmolean Museum.

I have charted up my interpretation of the embroidery.

ashmoleanlozengegrid (pdf)

Please let me know how it goes.

The veil of Hisham II

veilofhishamii This textile, thought to have been a veil, was found in a reliquary in the Santa María del Rivero church alter. It had been wrapped around the item in the reliquary but the textile has now been restored.

It is 109 cm long and 18 cm wide base fabric of linen with the decoration a silk & linen tapestry weave. It has tiraz bands in the decoration, with the inscription of-

“In the name of god the indulgent, the merciful”

as well as-

“May divine blessing, prosperity and long life be attributed to the imam, god’s servant, Hisham, he who is the object of his benevolence, the emir of all believers.”

Tiraz detail-
hishamtirazdetail
The kufic tiraz talks of Hisham, a 10th-11th century Caliph that ruled Cordoba during the Umayyad era. The animals in the tapestry woven roundels are birds and cats- hishamveilroundeldetail
The textile can be seen through the Qantara website although the textile is in the Real Academia de la Historia in Madrid.

Recommended reading
Al-Andalus: The Art of Islamic Spain edited Jerrilyn Dodds. Available to read online at the Internet Archive.
The Origin and Early Development of Floriated Kūfic by Adolf Grohmann. JStor article.
Material for a History of Islamic Textiles up to the Mongol Conquest by R. B. Serjeant. JStor article.
Ṭirāz Textiles from Egypt: Production, Administration and Uses of Ṭirāz Textiles from Egypt Under the Umayyad, ʻAbbāsid and Fāṭimid Dynasties by Jochen Sokoly. Phd thesis.